Kirti Mandir: The House of Valour

Kirti Mandir: The House of Valour

 Situated along the banks of the Vishwamitri River in Vadodara, Gujarat, the Kirti Mandir is

more than just a monument; it is a profound expression of legacy, artistry, and remembrance.

Commissioned in 1936 by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, it was built to commemorate the

silver jubilee of his reign and to honour the memory of his royal ancestors. Beyond its stone

walls lies a narrative woven with mythological grandeur, artistic mastery, and architectural

brilliance- a story that continues to echo across generations.

                                                              Fig. 1: Kirti Mandir

Kirti Mandir was envisioned as a family cenotaph and as a sanctum of memory. The monument

is dedicated to Lord Shiva and was built to commemorate the deceased members of the Gaekwad

royal family. It is located on Kothi Road near the Vishwamitri Bridge and close to the historic

Dak Bungalow, situated firmly within Vadodara’s cultural and architectural landscape.

Designed by Talwalkar, a student of the renowned British architect Robert F. Chisholm, the

structure is an exceptional example of Indo-Saracenic architecture and blends Indian motifs with

Gothic and Islamic influences.

Architectural Grandeur: Symbolism in Stone

The Kirti Mandir complex encompasses several key structures, including the Shiva Temple, Shri

Mehasoba Dada Temple, Shri Anand Rao Maharaj Chhatri, Sarveshwar Mahadev Mandir, and

several commemorative chhatris (cenotaphs), including those of Kashi Rao and the unknown.

 Fig. 2: Shiva Temple

Fig. 3: Shri Anand Rao Maharaj Chhatri

 Fig. 4: Sarveshwar Mahadev Mandir

Fig. 5: Shri Bhairon and Naga Devta Prasan

 Fig. 6: Shri Mehasoba Dada Temple

The main building is shaped like the letter “E,” a rare design in traditional Indian architecture.

The shikhara (spire) rises to a height of 35 meters and features a finial symbolising the sun,

moon, and earth, situated above the map of India, also known as amalaka. Further, the

amalgamation of the sun, moon, and earth with a map on it signifies a kalasha. This metal

amalaka also serves as a lightning arrester. Combined, it is an impactful expression of national

cohesion and harmony.

Fig. 7: A close view of the finial

Other notable features include jharokha windows, intricately carved balconies, domes, and

tombs, all blending in a harmonious composition. The interior of the temple is finished in

marble, with floors and walls that host a stunning collection of murals painted in vibrant hues-

the crown jewel of Kirti Mandir’s artistic legacy.

The Murals of Kirti Mandir

The first floor of Kirti Mandir is adorned with egg tempera frescoes, painted using mineral

colours by the legendary Bengali artist Nandalal Bose. Commissioned by the Maharaja, Bose

worked on these murals in four phases between 1939 and 1946, creating an unforgettable visual

narrative inspired by Indian epics, legends, and spiritual tales.

1. Gangavatarana – The Descent of Ganga

One wall features Lord Shiva in the powerful act of receiving the sacred Ganga. Portrayed with

three faces and six hands, he holds the trident, a bowl of nectar, poison, a conch, and a damru,

while one hand gestures in compassion. A garland of skulls emphasises his cosmic power.

Flowing from Brahma’s kamandalu, the holy Ganga descends onto Shiva’s head in her multiple

forms — Bhogavati, Mandakini, and as the celestial river kneeling at his feet — encapsulating

the cosmic cycle of creation and purification.

Fig. 8: Gangavatarana

2. Natir Puja

This artwork captures the essence of Rabindranath Tagore’s Natir Puja, a dance-drama inspired

by a Buddhist tale. It illustrates Sreemati, a court dancer of Ajatashatru, who performs at stupas

during the celebration of Vasant Purnima. Immersed in her devotion, she gradually renounces

her worldly identity, removing her garments and ornaments — until she stands cloaked only in

the humble attire of a bhikkhuni, indicating spiritual transformation and liberation.

Fig. 9: Natir Puja

3. The Life of Mirabai

A poignant series of frames traces the spiritual journey of Mirabai, the saint-poet devoted to Lord

Krishna. From meditating in traditional Marwari attire, to departing her home with an Ektara, to

her final arrival at the Dwarakadheesh temple, the mural encapsulates the unyielding devotion

and inner strength that defined her legacy.

Fig. 10: The Life of Mirabai

4. The Battle of Kurukshetra

Perhaps the most powerful is the mural depicting the Mahabharata’s Kurukshetra War. The

central panel shows Lord Krishna revealing the Bhagavad Gita to a hesitant Arjuna, imploring

him to embrace his dharma. On the left, Abhimanyu is seen breaking into the chakravyuha,

tragically outmatched and unarmed. On the right, Dhritarashtra and Gandhari grieve over their

sons, their ashes signifying the futility of war and the impermanence of life.

The themes portrayed in all these murals converge on a single truth: that everything in life is

transient.

Fig. 11: The Battle of Kurukshetra

Preservation Efforts: A Legacy Rescued

By the 21st century, time had taken a toll on the walls of Kirti Mandir. Dust, water seepage,

fungal growth, and salt efflorescence threatened the integrity of these invaluable paintings. In

2018, the INTACH ICI team, supported by IGNCA, Devasthan Trust, and the Swiss Embassy in

New Delhi, undertook a conservation project to restore the murals.

Their meticulous work involved:

• Condition mapping and detailed documentation
• Removal of salt and foreign material from the surface
• Local consolidation using compatible materials
• Reintegration of lost paint layers, adhering to ethical conservation standards.

These efforts not only revived the visual brilliance of Nandalal Bose’s work but also preserved a

part of India’s cultural and spiritual heritage for future generations.

• Conclusion

Kirti Mandir is more than just a historical site or an architectural marvel; it represents a vibrant

legacy of Indian culture, connecting the spiritual with the everyday, as well as individual

experiences with broader, universal themes. It offers more than a glimpse into royal history and

invites reflection on the deeper meanings of life, legacy, and service.

In a fast-paced world where grandeur often overshadows grace, Kirti Mandir remains a silent

guardian of values that transcend time — a true House of Valour.

References

•  Arya, Rama. (2017) The Mythological Frescoes of Nandalal Bose in Vadodara. [Blog] RamaToshi Arya's blog. Available at: https://ramaarya.blog/2017/05/31/vadodara-kirti-mandir-nandalal-bose/ (Accessed: 14 May 2025)

•  Beckett, Barbara. (2020) ‘The Value of Maintenance: The Important Role of Regular Maintenance in the Conservation.’ Conservation Insights 2020 Lectures INTACH, vol. 20. Available at: (Accessed 8 May 2025)

• HV (History of Vadodara-Baroda). (No date) Kirti Mandir. Available at: https://historyofvadodara.in/kirti-mandir/ (Accessed: 14 May 2025)

• Gujarat Tourism. (No date) Kirti Mandir Vadodara. Available at: https://www.gujarattourism.com/central-zone/vadodara/kirti-mandir.html (Accessed: 14 May 2025)

Image Credits

• Documentation by WPD Team, INTACH

Article written by: Ms. Rashi Karir

Project Assistant, WPD

Edited by: Mrs. Srishti Safaya

Editor, WPD