Stories Woven in Ornaments: Traditional Jewellery of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand and their Depiction in the Wall Paintings

Jewellery has been an integral part of the Indian subcontinent since the Upper Palaeolithic period. Over these millennia, humans have transformed their creations from ostrich eggshells to various metals. In India, it is an essential aspect of our culture and heritage. The country is incredibly rich in the diversity of styles from its many states; however, here we will focus on Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh due to their uniqueness and historical significance. The Himalayan ranges to the west feature various kinds of jewellery distinct from those found elsewhere in the country. Ornaments are symbolic of wealth, culture, rituals, and aesthetics. 

Uttarakhand has similar yet distinct jewellery in both the Garhwal and Kumaon regions. Similarly, the ornaments in Himachal’s Chamba and Kangra regions are also similar yet different from other parts of Himachal Pradesh. 

In Uttarakhand, both the Garhwali and Kumaoni communities wear traditional jewellery as an integral part of their culture and traditions, enhancing not only beauty and femininity but also representing economic prosperity. Typically, ornaments are crafted from silver, but many people choose to create their pieces in gold, signifying a wealthy status. Both Garhwal and Kumaon regions in Uttarakhand have various types of ornaments, nathuli (nose ring) being the most famous, but other ornaments like bulaq (long septum ornament), hansuli (gold or silver beaded necklace), chandrahaar (multi-chained ornament), sikka mala/kaladaar (a coin necklace), galobandh (choker), kamarbandh (waist chain) and kanfool (ornament worn on earlobe) are also common.

                             Goddess Radha wearing nathuli, Shree Guru Ram Rai Durbar, Dehradun, Uttarakhand

Wall paintings at Dehradun’s Laxmi Narayan temple, Radha Krishna temple, and Samadhi Sthal depict goddesses Sita, Radha, Mahishasura Mardini, Yashoda, and gopis, wearing nathuli. Haridwar’s Barah Kothi entrance depicts Lord Ganesha wearing a sikka mala/ kaladaar.

Lord Ganesha wearing sikka mala along with a nathuli-wearing attendant, Barah Kothi, Haridwar, Uttarakhand

                                Gopis wearing “nathuli”. Laxmi Narayan Temple, Dehradun, Uttarakhand

Radha wearing nathuli, Radha Krishna Temple, Dehradun, Uttarakhand

                         Goddess Sita wearing nathuli and kanfool. Radha Krishna Temple, Dehradun, Uttarakhand

                                  Yashoda wearing nathuli, Radha Krishna Temple, Dehradun, Uttarakhand
 

                   Mahishasura Mardini wearing nathuli, Shree Guru Ram Rai Durbar, Dehradun, Uttarakhand

The jewellery of Himachal Pradesh resembles that of Uttarakhand, with silver being the predominant material, though gold is also crafted. Jewels in this region symbolise status and wealth and are believed to ward off evil and protect against illnesses due to the purifying properties of gold and silver.

Certain pieces of ornaments can be found in similar forms in both Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh. For instance, in Uttarakhand, the nathuli, which is adorned with beads, serves as a symbol of a family's wealth—more beads indicate greater wealth. In Himachal Pradesh, a similar nose ring known as the balu features beads as well, along with a latkan (a small leaf ornament). The latkan typically resembles either a peepal (Ficus religiosa) leaf or a betel leaf, symbolising the auspiciousness of the jewellery.

Another piece of jewellery that the state shares is chandrahaar, a long necklace with multiple silver strings, paired with a kaladaar/sikka mala, which is a coin necklace made of silver. 

The other ornament, karnphool (in Himachal Pradesh) or kanfool (in Uttarakhand), literally meaning flower worn on the earlobe, is made up of both gold and silver.

A Lady wearing balu with latkan, Shakti Devi Temple, Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

When examining the historical significance of jewellery, the nathuli (also known as balu) is one of the most depicted types found in wall paintings. These murals provide insight into the prevalence of jewellery traditions, as deities are often shown adorned with these ornaments. Ornaments like the balu, sikka mala, and kamarbandh are often depicted as being worn by the deities in the paintings.

                                          Radha wearing balu, Shakti Devi Temple, Chamba, Himachal Pradesh

                               Gopi wearing kamarbandh, Radha Krishna Temple, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Surpanakha wearing bulaq, Shree Thakur Ram Gopal Temple, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

Lord Ganesha wearing sikka mala, Ram Ghat, Sirmaur, Himachal Pradesh

A Dvarapala wearing sikka mala, Radha Krishna Temple, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

The wall paintings at Chamba’s Shakti Devi Temple depict Goddess Radha and a Mughal queen wearing a balu. At Kangra’s Radha Krishna Temple, Sheesh Mahal, and Shree Ram Thakur Gopal Temple, the art shows gopis wearing long waist chains, royals adorned with coin malas, Mughal queens wearing naths, and even asuras like Surpanakha depicted with a bulaq. At Sirmaur’s Ram Ghat Shiva Temple, Lord Ganesha is illustrated wearing a sikka mala.

The jewellery demonstrates the strong connection between material culture and artistic expression, providing insight into the everyday lives and aesthetics of mountain communities. Preserving, documenting, and understanding these aspects is essential not only for comprehending the past but also for safeguarding heritage to be preserved for posterity.

Author: Himani Sejwal

Editor: Srishti Safaya

 

References:

Online Sources:

Global InCH. (no date)  Jewellery of Himachal Pradesh. Available at: https://www.globalinch.org/craft/jewellery-of-himachal-pradesh/ (Accessed: 6 July 2026) 

 

Lahaul & Spiti District Administration. (no date) Fairs and Festivals. Available at: https://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/fairs-festivals/ (Accessed: 6 July 2026)

 

Malhotra, N. (2024) Sustainable Pathways Uttarakhand: The Role of Indigenous Tribe and Native Practices in India's Economic Model. Google Books. Available at: https://books.google.com/ (Accessed: 6 July 2026)

 

Scribd. (no date) Traditional Magnitude of Ornamentation of Uttarakhand. Available at: https://www.scribd.com/document/929905009/Traditional-Magnitude-of-Ornamentation-of-Uttarakhand (Accessed: 7 July 2026)

 

Books:

Aryan, S. (1993) Crafts of Himachal Pradesh. Ahmedabad: Mapin Publishing

 

Chandra, R. G. (1964) Studies in the Development of Ornaments and Jewelry in Protohistoric India. Varanasi: Chowkhamba Sanskrit Series Office

 

Malhotra, N. (2024) Sustainable Pathways Uttarakhand: The Role of Indigenous Tribe and Native Practices in India's Economic Model. Bingley: Emerald Publishing Limited.

 

Ward, J. (1909) Historic Ornaments: Treatise on Decorative Art and Architectural Ornament. London: Chapman & Hall.

 

Image Sources:

Documentary Photographs by WPD Survey Team, Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand